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Truffles Uncovered

I am very excited to announce that I have been invited to participate in a food lit event that will take place in Turin (Piedmont, Italy) this coming September. The event is titled “Turin Epicurean Capital” and will revolve around the universal meaning of food in life – naturally, a topic I feel strongly about.

When the organizer, Lucia Hannau, asked me to write a guest post for the conference’s blog, I immediately thought of truffles, since Piedmont happens to have the best in the world.

I must admit that I didn’t grow up eating truffles – as a child I only experienced a whiff of them in restaurants when a truffle dish was ordered by somebody seated at my table. And I can’t say that I loved it. As an adult, however, I had a chance to rediscover and develop a palate for them. But my love for truffles totally bloomed during my latest trip to Tuscany and Rome. Being truffles season, most restaurants were featuring truffle dishes, so I finally had a chance to try them in different preparations within a short period of time – an amazing experience!

My research for this article has been fascinating, and I managed to answer questions that I have always wondered: what gives truffles their characteristic aroma? Why do people use pigs to find them? When is their harvesting season? I also wondered: can I actually buy them in Vancouver? And the answer to this last question is: yes! I was able to get a gourmet supermarket to special order a single black summer truffle, which is what is in season right now and, luckily for my wallet, one of the most affordable varieties. You can see it showcased in the pappardelle dish above (for which you can check out the recipe at the end of this post).

But what are truffles? They are a unique kind of mushrooms that develop entirely underground, attached to tree roots, and which may be of great commercial interest due to their high demand and relative scarcity.

Like their tuber relatives, truffles are dense, rounded masses usually between 1 and 4 inches in diameter. In order to spread their spores, truffles produce pheromones that prompt animals to uncover and eat them – a behavior which has been exploited by truffle hunters who have traditionally made use of pigs to locate them. Particularly, truffles contain androstenone, a steroid also produced by boars when mating. Dogs1 can also be trained to search for truffles, with the advantage that they can be taught not to eat them upon discovery!

Flavor-wise, truffles are an acquired taste, containing several sulfur compounds (e.g.: bis(methylsulfanyl)methane) which may resemble hydrocarbons, and because of the presence of androstenone, which has an unpleasant smell described as woody/musky, to sweaty/urinous2. Even though a portion of the human population is unable to detect it3, there is evidence that repeated exposure to androstenone can cause sensitization4, leading to the conclusion that androstenone largely contributes to making truffles an acquired taste.

Truffles have been known since antiquity, with written evidence as early as in the 4th century BC. The Greek historian Plutarch thought that they were the result of lightning, while the Roman physician Dioscorides classified them as tuberous roots. Rarely mentioned in the Middle Ages, truffles became popular within the high classes during the Renaissance (legends say that they were a favorite of King Francis the 1st of France), and through the 18th and 19th centuries, their prestige kept increasing in high-cuisine.

The "Langhe" region, in Piedmont — The “Langhe” region, in Piedmont

Truffles only grow in very specific climates, in symbiosis with the right host trees. Because of this, they are very hard to cultivate with the most sought after demanding exorbitant prices. Most valuable is the white truffle (Tuber magnatum), especially the one found in the Langhe region (located in the Piedmontese provinces of Asti and Cuneo), but that can also be found in some parts of Tuscany and in central Italy. White truffles grow on the roots of oak, poplar, hazel and beech trees. White truffles mature in the fall, which is when the famous “Fiera del Tartufo” (Truffle Fair) of Alba takes place – a prestigious exhibition and trade show born in 1929 where the best white truffles can sell for over $400 per ounce. White truffles have a pungent, slightly garlicky aroma, and are best appreciated raw, freshly shaved on dishes before serving.

The second most valuable truffle is the black (winter) truffle (Tuber melanosporum), found in the hazelnut and oak forests in the Périgord region of south-western France. These truffles are harvested in fall and winter and have a delicate earthy flavor, which is known to be enhanced by light cooking. Another notable truffle is the Burgundy (Tuber uncinatum), which has an intense hazelnut flavor. It can be found in much of Europe and it is harvested in fall and winter. The Summer truffle (Tuber aestivum), instead, is harvested in the summer – it is molecularly identical to the Burgundy truffle, but has less intense flavor due to environmental factors.

Given the high price that truffles can reach, cooks often make use of truffle oils, pastes, kinds of butter, or even flour. Since oil-soluble bis(methylsulfanyl)methane can be easily synthesized at low cost, truffle-infused products are often completely artificial (also lacking any androstenone flavor, resulting in increased palatability for those who haven’t acquired a liking for it).

Some of the most known dishes using truffle as an ingredient include:

Risottos (often together with porcini mushrooms).
Various pasta dishes (especially egg pasta, such as tagliatelle, pappardelle or maltagliati, generally along with butter, cream, or mascarpone sauce).
Truffle omelets (for a stronger truffle flavor, the uncracked eggs can be kept in an airtight container along with the truffle for a couple of days before use).
Paired with Foie Gras.
Costolette alla Valdostana (cutlets as made in the Aosta Valley, located in the western Alps).
Sauces to pair with meats, including beef tenderloin.

Truffle dishes are often accompanied with medium to full body red wines, sharp enough to cleanse the palate of the sulfurous notes, and aged enough to develop a matching earthiness. E.g.: white truffles with Barolo, Nebbiolo, Barbaresco, or Dolcetto d’Alba; black truffles with Burgundy or Pinot Noir.

As a final remark, please note that the popular “truffle” gelato served as a dessert in pizzerie and restaurants has nothing to do with truffles! It owes its name to its shape and color, which resembles a truffle, and, just like truffles, can be found in white and black varieties:

“Tartufo bianco” – (white truffle), consisting in “fior di latte” (cream) and coffee gelato, sprinkled with white chocolate shavings.
“Tartufo nero” (black truffle), which consists in chocolate and “fior di latte” gelato, covered in unsweetened cocoa powder.

Pappardelle with Cream and Black Truffle

Yield: 4 servings

Total Time: 20 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

#Pappardelle with Cream and Black Truffle

Ingredients

280 g (10 oz) fresh or dried egg pasta - I recommend pappardelle (one of the widest cuts), but tagliatelle, or fettuccine can also be used
1 cup light cream (10% fat)
30 g (1 oz) fresh black truffle (a small one)
30 g (1 oz) unsalted butter
4 garlic cloves, crushed
Nutmeg, salt, and pepper
Parmigiano Reggiano, grated (optional)

Preparation

Bring a large pot of salty water to a boil.
In a skillet, melt the butter at low heat, add the garlic and allow it to soften without browning (upper image).
Remove the garlic, add the cream and bring to a gentle boil. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg, adjust salt and pepper.
Using a sharp grater, grate half of the truffle directly into the skillet; remove from the heat and let rest (lower image).
Cook the pasta for 2-3 minutes (if fresh) or 5-6 minutes (if dried). Then drain it quickly and add it to the skillet with the truffle cream. Toss gently and finish cooking the pasta in the sauce for a couple of minutes.
Using a truffle slicer or a mandolin, thinly slice the rest of the truffle.
Serve the pasta in preheated bowls, and lay 5 or 6 truffle slices on each portion. Optionally, sprinkle with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2014/06/truffles-uncovered.html

1 Here is a video on the life of a truffle hunter, and of his dog (http://vimeo.com/62704923).

2 Androstenone belongs to the urinous and musky primary odors (http://chemse.oxfordjournals.org/content/2/4/401.full.pdf+html).

3 Recent studies estimated that only 6% of adults can’t perceive its smell (http://chemse.oxfordjournals.org/content/28/5/423.full).

4 “Sensitization” is the increase of the ability to perceive a given stimulus (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2813372/).

Poppy Seed Potato Bignès on Braised Leeks and Taleggio

Going through my old recipe book, I stumbled upon this delicious dish – true comfort food, Italian style! An amazing entree where soft and creamy potato bignès, covered in nutty poppy seeds and deep fried are laid to rest on a bed of braised leeks and Taleggio! The dish is absolutely simple to make and a guaranteed success. The only challenge lies in finishing the two components more or less at the same time.

This recipe has been adapted from La Cucina Italiana (November 1997, page 58).

Poppy Seed Potato Bignès

Yield: 2-3 servings

Total Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes

Prep Time: 1 hour

Cook Time: 30 minutes

Poppy Seed Potato Bignès

Ingredients

For the sauce

1 Tbsp butter
1 big leek (or 2 smaller ones)
1 cup (250 ml) milk (for the sauce)
1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy cream (for the sauce)
10 oz (300 g) Taleggio cheese (for the sauce)
salt to taste (for the sauce)

For the bignè

1 small Russet potato (250 g)
1/2 cup (50 g) flour
1/4 cup (50 g) butter
1/4 cup (50 g) water
1/8 of a teaspoon salt
1 egg
1/2 cup poppy seeds
2 cups (0.5 l) olive oil for deep-frying

Preparation

Boil the potato. Let it cool until lukewarm.
Meanwhile, start preparing the sauce.
Slice the leek in thin rings (fig. a) and sauté them in butter for 10 minutes (fig. b).
Add the milk and cream (fig. c), and stew slowly for 30-45 minutes until thick (at that point take off the heat but keep warm).
While the sauce cooks, start preparing the bignè.
Put the water and butter into a small pan (fig. 1) and bring to a boil (fig. 2).
Add the flour and stir constantly (fig. 3).
Keep the mix on the heat until sizzling, and the mix detaches itself from the pot (fig. 4).
Move the mix into a bowl, let cool.
Add the egg and salt (fig. 5). Mix (fig. 6).
Mash the potato with the ricer and add it to the mix (fig. 7).
Mix everything until smooth, then stir in 1 Tbsp of poppy seeds (fig. 8).
With your hands, make walnut-sized balls, roll them over poppy seeds until completely covered (fig. 9). You should be able to make 8-10 of them (fig. 10).
Deep fry the bignès in olive oil (fig. 11) keeping the temperature at constant 180 degrees Celsius.
When golden-brown, remove balls and put them to dry onto paper-towel (fig. 12).
Finish preparing the sauce by adding the diced Taleggio to it (fig. d). Stir until the cheese melts completely. Adjust the salt.
Serve the bignè while still hot on a bed of sauce.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/12/poppy-seed-potato-bignes.html

Home-Style Pizza Competition

An unusual post for this blog, today. Three friends of mine have just competed in a pizza cook-off, and I had the honor to be the head judge 🙂

The contestants were responsible for bringing their own ingredients, including their pizza dough (which they made beforehand). To cook the pizzas, they all used the same oven, set at its maximum temperature (550 °F), with the same pizza stone.

We had two challenges: the first was on ingredients and technique; the second on the choice of the toppings.

For the first challenge, everyone made their best Margherita. Here is what each did.

The first contestant, Stefano, brought a slowly-leavened pizza dough which he had raising in his fridge for 2 full days (see below for his recipe). He used canned, peeled whole San Marzano tomatoes (which he seasoned with salt and olive oil), and fresh “bocconcini” mozzarella. The pizza was assembled and cooked for 7 minutes (until the mozzarella started to become bubbly).

The second contestant, Sandro, used his 1-day leavened dough. He blanched and strained fresh Roma tomatoes, which he then seasoned with herbs, salt, and olive oil. He also used fresh “bocconcini” mozzarella, but he adopted the strategy to add it to the pizza only during the last 2 minutes of cooking (out of the 8 minutes total). He then finished the pizza with basil leaves.

The third contestant, Samuele, also made a 1-day leavened dough. He used canned Molisana strained tomatoes, with some added salt. He used “bocconcini” mozzarella, added at the beginning of cooking, like Stefano’s. He finished his pizza with basil, a hint of Parmigiano, and a generous amount of olive oil.

Here is how this challenge went.

All three contestants used a bit too much tomato sauce. Stefano had the best dough of all three. Sandro’s dough was a close second. Stefano’s tomatoes were good but slightly under-seasoned. Sandro’s tomatoes had the most flavor but were a bit watery (possibly because he used fresh tomatoes). Samuele’s tomatoes were the best of all three, although he put a little too much salt on them. Overall, Sandro’s mozzarella tasted best: being it cooked just slightly, it kept its milkiness, tasting more authentic. Overall, Sandro won this challenge.

For the second challenge, the contestants were asked to show off their best toppings.

Stefano went with a proven combination: speck and fontina. He prepared his Margherita base, with fontina mixed in with the mozzarella. Half-way through the cooking, he topped up the pizza with slices of speck.

Sandro also used his Margherita base, to which he added sautéed onions and gorgonzola cheese. After the pizza was cooked, he topped it off with raw prosciutto.

At this point, we were all too full, and Samuele decided to drop out of the competition 🙂

Overall Sandro’s toppings were considered more creative and with a more distinct flavor then Stefano’s; also because Stefano’s fontina was too mild and we couldn’t really taste it. Sandro also won the second competition!

Stefano's Pizza Dough

#Stefano's Pizza Dough

Ingredients

Quantities per person.

200 g all purpose flour
125 g cold water
5 g salt
1.5 g fresh yeast (or 0.7 g dry yeast)

Preparation

I mix water and yeast until the yeast is fully melted. I then add half of the flour. I mix well, then add the salt. Finally, I slowly incorporate the rest of the flour, a bit at a time (it needs to be kneaded well, I use Kitchen Aid for at least 15 minutes).
I then store it in the fridge for 2 days in a sealed container. I add a film of olive oil to keep the dough from developing a crust.
The day of the pizza, I take it out of the fridge. I let it rest for another hour, then I divide it in equal portions, one per person. I put each portion in a different container to do the final leavening at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/10/home-style-pizza-competition.html

Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy – Baked Pasta in Pizza Crust

A few weeks ago, I was thrilled to be invited by Roz from La Bella Vita to write a guest post for her blog. She asked if I could present a traditional Italian Christmas dish. I didn’t really have a dish that is only for Christmas, so I chose a recipe for really special occasions – an Italian classic adapted from Silver Spoon’s “Pasticcio di Tagliatelle”.

As I explained on Roz’s blog, “in Italian cuisine, a ‘pasticcio’ (sometimes referred to as ‘timballo’) is a preparation in which several ingredients (including pasta or rice, meats, and sauces) are baked in the oven within a pastry shell or a pie crust. The resulting dish, which looks plain on the outside but reveals rich fillings, was invented in the 1700s by palace chefs precisely to surprise and delight their noble guests. Today, pasticcio is still considered a dish for special occasions, including the Christmas meal.”

Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy

Yield: 3-4 servings

Total Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 45 minutes

Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy

Ingredients

For the timbale

2 Tbsp (30 g) unsalted butter (including some for greasing)
7 oz (200 g) pizza dough (which can be bought in specialty stores)
Some flour (for dusting)
4 oz (120 g) fresh spinach
6 oz (170 g) Cremini mushrooms, chopped
½ oz (14 g) dried Porcini mushrooms, re-hydrated and chopped
¼ cup white wine
1 Tbsp (15 ml) milk
2 Tbsp (30 ml) heavy cream
4 oz (120 g) tagliatelle pasta (either fresh or dried)
1 egg
¼ cup Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
Some salt and pepper

For the wine gravy

1 Tbsp (15 g) unsalted butter
1 Tbsp (15 g) all purpose flour
½ tsp vegetable stock extract
1 cup milk
¼ cup white wine

Preparation

For the timbale

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Preheat the oven at 350°F (180°C).
Grease an oven-proof dish with butter.
In a large pan, roast the fresh mushrooms in butter for 5 min at high heat.
Add the re-hydrated mushroom, cook for another 2 min at medium heat (a1).
Add the wine (a2) and allow it to boil until it evaporates.
Cook the fresh spinach in a covered pot (without any added water) at medium heat for 5 min (a3).
When the spinach is ready, squeeze out as much water as possible and chop.
Add the spinach to the pan (a4).
Add milk and cream (a5), adjust salt and pepper.
Cook the tagliatelle in plenty of salted water for 2/3 of their standard cooking time.
Drain the tagliatelle and them to the pan. Incorporate gently (a6).
Roll out the dough to the thickness of 1/8 inch (3 mm).
Line the (greased) oven proof dish with the dough (b1).
Spoon in the filling (b2).
Beat the eggs with the Parmigiano. Pour the mix uniformly over the filling (b3).
Fold the pizza dough fully wrapping it around the filling (b4).
Bake for 30-40 minutes at 350°F (180°C) until the top is well browned.

For the wine gravy

Warm up the butter in a small pan (c1) at medium heat until it barely melts, then add the wine (c2).
Add the vegetable stock extract (c3). Let it reduce, then add the flour (c4).
Mix until a ball of dough forms.
Add a small amount of milk and whip until you get a creamy texture (c5).
Gradually add the rest of the milk, as you continue whipping.
While stirring constantly, boil for at least 2 minutes until the mix thickens (c6).
Pour the gravy in the bowls, then place a slice of timbale in each bowl and serve immediately.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/12/tagliatelle-timbale-with-wine-gravy.html

Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

Most Italians would be perfectly happy to eat pasta every day, and some probably do! Everyday pasta is normally dried durum pasta, delicious when of good quality and properly cooked, and also convenient as it can be stored for months in the cupboard. Fresh pasta, on the other hand, is generally regarded as more sophisticated, and it’s more likely to be found on restaurant menus. This recipe describes how to make ‘tagliolini’ from scratch without a pasta machine, and then serve it with a simple wine mushroom sauce. ‘Tagliolini’ is a kind of ‘tagliatelle,’ and is similarly named from the verb ‘tagliare,’ to cut.

Fresh pasta has a different texture and flavor than dried pasta also because of the different ingredients. Eggs are frequently added (most fresh pasta is labeled: ‘pasta all’uovo’) and all-purpose flour is often used instead of durum wheat flour. This is especially true when fresh pasta is made by hand since durum flour is harder to work into shape.

Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 1 hour

Prep Time: 45 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

Ingredients

For the tagliolini

100 g (3/4 cup) of flour
1 egg
a pinch of salt (1/16 of a tsp)

For the mushroom sauce

2 cloves of garlic, each peeled and cut into 2 or 3 pieces
5 or 6 medium-sized cremini mushrooms, sliced
2 Tablespoons olive oil
a splash of white wine
1/2 cup of double-cream
salt & pepper

For the plating

1/8 cup grated Parmigiano
a handful of Italian parsley leaves, minced
black pepper, ground

Preparation

For the tagliolini

Using your hands, mix the ingredients together (2).
Add just enough warm water (2 o 3 teaspoons) to form a compact, hard ball.
Kneed for a couple of minutes (3).
Have the dough rest, covered in plastic wrap, for 30 minutes at room temperature.
As the dough rests, start bringing a large pot of salty water to a boil (see Cooking Pasta 101) and prepare the sauce.

For the mushroom sauce

Roast the garlic in the olive oil at medium heat (a) until golden.
Add the cremini mushrooms. Roast them until they soften and start to release some liquid (b).
Add a splash of white wine and wait until it evaporates fully.
Remove the garlic and add the cream. Season with salt and simmer for a few minutes (c).
Turn off the heat and put a lid on the pan to keep the sauce warm and moist.
Mince the parsley and grate the Parmigiano in preparation for the plating.
Unwrap the dough and proceed to roll and cut the tagliolini as shown in the video below.

To complete the dish

Warm up the sauce adding some pasta water to rehydrate it if necessary.
Boil the pasta for 2 minutes stirring gently (it'll start floating in about a minute).
Drain the pasta quickly and toss it into the pan with the sauce. Mix gently.
Serve in bowls, sprinkle with Parmigiano, parsley, and some ground black pepper.
Enjoy!

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/03/handmade-mushroom-tagliolini.html

Note: This traditional technique makes use of the rolling pin to stretch the dough, as opposed to just pressing it. This process takes a bit of time to master, but it’s easy when making a small batch of noodles. Preparations like ravioli and tortellini are a lot harder to do by hand because they require a thinner dough.

Canederli, the Italian Knödel

Canederli are bread dumplings only found in the north-east of Italy (Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli, and part of Veneto), where they are served as a first course or as a main entree. Variations of this dish are common in all south-eastern Europe, where they are also served as an accompaniment to meat stews and roasts. The word ‘canederlo’, in fact, derives from the German and Austrian ‘knödel’ (dumpling).

Canederli can be considered part of ‘cucina povera’ (cuisine of the poor), as they are made of simple and inexpensive ingredients: stale bread moistened with milk and bound with eggs and a small amount of flour. However, the mixture is often enriched with cheese and Speck (a kind of smoked prosciutto also local to the north-east regions of Italy).

There are several variations of this regional dish, the following recipe describes one of the most common: filled with cheese. Once the dumplings are prepared and boiled, they are either served “dry” with melted butter or in broth.

Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

Canederli, the Italian Knödel

Yield: 4-5 servings

Total Time: 2 hours, 20 minutes

Prep Time: 2 hours

Cook Time: 20 minutes

#Canederli, the Italian Knödel

Ingredients

For the dumplings

300 g (10 oz) stale bread, diced (which can be obtained by dicing 450 g of fresh bread and laying it on a perforated tray for 24-48 hours, covered with a tea towel) - it's important that the bread is fully dried out and crunchy
225 ml (1 scant cup) milk
3 eggs, lightly beaten
60 g (½ cup) white flour
3 Tbsp (minced) flat leaf (Italian) parsley
200 g (7 oz) cheese, e.g.: Fontina, Raclette (smoked or plain), or Gouda (smoked or plain), diced
45 g (3 Tbsp) unsalted butter
1 ½ Tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper
¼ tsp nutmeg
3 liters (12 cups) of vegetable stock (for boiling)

To serve them "dry"

20 g (1 ½ Tbsp) (per serving) unsalted butter
10 g (2 tsp) (per serving) grated Parmigiano
1 small bunch of chives, thinly sliced

To serve them in broth

1 cup (per serving) additional vegetable stock
Some grated Parmigiano
Some chives, thinly sliced (optional)

Preparation

Put the stale bread into a large mixing bowl (1). Add the milk (2), the eggs (3), as well as salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Mix well and let it rest for at least two hours, covered with a tea towel, in a cool place or in the fridge. Stir occasionally to ensure that the mix absorbs the liquid uniformly.
After the two hours, add the flour (4), then the parsley (5), and the cheese (6). Mix gently.
Finely chop the onion (7) and fry it in oil and butter for ten minutes at medium heat, stirring occasionally.
Let the onion cool (8), then incorporate it into the mix (9).
Let the mixture rest for another half-hour covered with a tea towel. It should look uniformly moist and slightly sticky.
Using your hands, form the canederli by pressing together enough of the mix to make balls the size of a small orange (60 to 80 grams each). You should be able produce 14-16 balls out of the entire mix.
After making each ball, roll it in flour to seal the outside and prevent the canederli from sticking to each other (10).
When all the canederli are ready, re-roll them into flour and compress them a second time (11).
Have the vegetable stock in a large pot, well boiling on the stove.
Place the canederli gently in the pot (12-13), wait until the boil is resumed (14).
Boil the canederli for 12-15 minutes (they will be floating the whole time), then drain them gently.
If serving the canederli "dry", warm up the butter just enough to melt it. Place 3 canederli into each plate, pour the melted butter on them, then sprinkle with some thin-sliced chives, a generous amount of grated Parmigiano, and some freshly ground black pepper.

Notes

Note: once boiled, the canederli can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.

If serving the canederli in broth, prepare more vegetable stock (as the one used for boiling will be cloudy because of the flour). Place one or two canederli into each bowl, then pour the broth on them. Finish with some grated Parmigiano and (optional) chives.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/01/canederli-italian-knodel.html

More featured recipes

Polenta Taragna – An Enriched Polenta from the Italian Mountains

In previous posts, we talked about Cucina Povera, the cuisine of the poor, now becoming “fashionable” in high-end restaurants. This is the case also for polenta – one of the simplest dishes ever conceived.

Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

Now traditionally made with cornmeal, different types of polenta have been feeding the masses since Roman times, well before the discovery of the Americas and the subsequent introduction of corn into Europe. Earlier polentas were made with millet, rye, spelt, barley, chickpeas, chestnuts or wheat flours.

In Italy, polenta is a relatively common accompaniment to stews, braised dishes, and fried fish, often as an alternative to bread. In some parts of northern Italy, polenta becomes a more involved dish thanks to the use of different grains and to the addition of cheeses, milk, butter. This recipe describes one of the most renowned polenta spin-offs: Polenta Taragna.

Polenta Taragna is typical of Valtellina as well as of the valleys of Bergamo and Brescia. Its most characteristic trait is its dark color, due to the use of buckwheat flour (mixed with cornmeal). Polenta Taragna can also be recognized from other polenta-based dishes for containing substantial amounts of butter and cheese, mixed in right before the dish is served. The cheeses used in this preparation vary from region to region, but they’re commonly semi-fat, medium-ripened cow-milk cheeses (e.g.: Valtellina Casera, Bitto, Branzi, or Fontina). Polenta Taragna is served as a main course, or to accompany cold cuts and Italian pickles.

Polenta Taragna

Yield: 2 servings (as a main)

Total Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 1 hour

Polenta Taragna

Ingredients

1 liter of water
120 g buckwheat flour
80 g cornmeal (fig. a)
75 g unsalted butter, cubed (fig. b)
250 g semi-fat cheese, cubed (e.g.: Fontina) (fig. c)
½ teaspoon salt

Preparation

Bring the water to a boil in the traditional copper cauldron or in a heavy-bottomed, stainless steel saucepan.
Slowly add the flours, while stirring constantly, until a lump-free mixture is obtained (figs. 1, 2, 3).
Cook at medium-low heat for 50-60 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the mix from sticking to the pot.
When the polenta is almost ready, add the butter and allow it to melt (fig. 4).
Finally, turn off the heat and add the cheese (fig. 5).
Keep stirring until the cheese has partially melted (fig. 6).
Serve in earthenware or ceramic bowls, or on a cutting board if used as a side.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/01/polenta-taragna.html

Pasta with Gorgonzola

This quick and versatile recipe is another great representative of the cuisine of northern Italy. With any kind of strong, creamy cheese and a handful of always-ready ingredients, this delicious sauce can be whipped together from scratch in minutes. In Italy, there is absolutely no Alfredo sauce! The most famous dish that makes use of a creamy cheese sauce is ‘Gnocchi al Gorgonzola‘, but any kind of pasta can be used – and boxed dried pasta is actually recommended for this dish.

Pasta with Gorgonzola

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Pasta with Gorgonzola

Ingredients

10 g butter (1 tablespoon)
10 g water (1 tablespoon)
10 g flour (1 tablespoon)
100 g milk (½ cup)
some ground nutmeg
some ground black pepper
salt
40 g Gorgonzola, Cambozola, or other blue cheese
One handful of crushed walnuts, pecans or pine nuts
20 g grated Parmigiano
140 g dried pasta. In the picture above you can see whole-wheat 'penne', but any dried pasta or fresh gnocchi can be used. Ricotta and spinach, or cheese ravioli also work very well with this sauce.

Preparation

Put butter and water in a saucepan at medium heat.
When butter has melted, add the flour.
Stir until it sizzles.
Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly. Bring to a boil. Add the nutmeg.
Add the walnuts, the Gorgonzola, the Parmigiano, and adjust with salt and pepper.
Cook the pasta "al dente", then drain it and put it back in the pan adding the cheese sauce. Mix well and serve in pre-heated bowls.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/02/pasta-with-gorgonzola.html

Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

Pizzoccheri is a Northern Italian dish almost unknown in North America. It originates in Valtellina (known as Valtelline or Val Telline in English), a valley at the very top of Lombardy.

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Despite the name, Pizzoccheri has nothing to do with pizza. It is a first course centered around a special pasta made of buckwheat flour, a type of grain also called Saracen corn (‘grano Saraceno’ in Italian). The recognizable hearty flavor and coarse texture of buckwheat pasta are almost absent from Italian cuisine, but they marry perfectly with potatoes, cabbage, butter, and Valtellina Casera cheese (also indigenous of Valtellina) to make a unique dish.

As detailed by its official website, Valtellina Casera is a medium-ripening, semi-cooked PDO cheese (see the ‘Formaggio Cheese’ post for more information on cheese classification) exclusively produced in Valtellina and made with partly skimmed cow milk. For the preparation of Pizzoccheri, Valtellina Casera is used when just over its minimum aging of 70 days while its flavor is delicate and milky and before it turns more intense.

In Italy, dried buckwheat pasta specifically cut for use in Pizzoccheri can be bought in stores. However, it can also be easily made from scratch without particular equipment.

Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

Yield: 2-3 servings

Total Time: 45 minutes

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

Ingredients

For 200 g of fresh Pizzoccheri noodles

100 g buckwheat flour
50 g white all-purpose flour
1/8 tsp salt

For the finished dish

200 g fresh Pizzoccheri noodles (the same amount of dried Pizzoccheri can also be used).
250 g potatoes (2 small, diced).
150 g Savoy cabbage (sliced). For a more delicate flavor, it can be replaced or mixed with spinach.
100 g Valtellina Casera cheese (thinly sliced). It can be replaced with other, easier to find, mild semi-cooked cheeses (such as young Fontina, Montasio, Raclette or Gouda).
20 g Parmigiano cheese (grated).
50 g unsalted butter.
3 cloves of garlic (crushed).
2 or 3 leaves of fresh sage (optional).
Salt and black pepper.

Preparation

For the Pizzoccheri noodles

Mix the buckwheat flour with the white flour and the salt.
Work in about 1/3 cup of water, just enough for a firm dough to form. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
Roll the dough into a sheet 2-3 millimeters thick.
Cut the sheet into small rectangles of about 0.5 by 5 cm.
Using a spatula, separate the rectangles from the cutting board.
Place the pieces on a floured plate (sprinkling with more flour before overlapping them).

For the finished dish

Bring a very large pot of salted water to a boil (using ½ tablespoon of salt per liter of water).
Add the potatoes and the cabbage to the boiling water.
Let the vegetables cook for 12-13 minutes (5 minutes if using dried pasta).
Toss the (uncooked) pasta into the boiling water and keep cooking for another 2-3 minutes (10 minutes if using dried pasta).
Meanwhile, melt the butter with the garlic and the sage in it; roast them until the garlic is golden, then discard both.
Drain the pasta and vegetables mix removing it from the top by using a skimmer not to disturb the cloudy water.
At this point start assembling the dish directly into individual bowls. Start layering the ingredients alternating some of the pasta and vegetables with a sprinkle of Parmigiano, a few cheese slices and some melted butter. Repeat 2 or 3 times using up all of the ingredients, ending with a layer of pasta and vegetables and a sprinkle of Parmigiano.
Add some black pepper and serve without stirring.

Notes

A vegetable mincer can be used to make parallel cuts.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/01/pizzoccheri-della-valtellina.html